Angkor without a sunrise

In August 2015 we had already made it to the Cambodian border, but with a scooter on Thai plates we were not let in — that is the story of the post “320 kilometers to turn around at the Cambodian border.” We got here later, after we sold the scooter in Phuket: we entered Cambodia by bus and rode on to Siem Reap, the town next to the temples of Angkor.

On January 14, 2016, we rented bicycles. From our guesthouse to Angkor it was about fifteen minutes, so a bicycle is just the thing for getting there; bicycles are quite popular here in general.

To be honest, Angkor did not impress us much. Perhaps it was our inflated expectations. But the countless crowds of tourists kept us from feeling the ancient Khmer atmosphere — the place is simply too hyped.

The sunrise we missed

On January 15 we woke up at five in the morning and set off at six, hoping to catch the sunrise at Angkor. We didn't make it: by the time we got there, it was already light.

In 2016 a one-day ticket cost 20 dollars per person; there are also three-day and seven-day tickets. We handed over the money through gritted teeth. It's all serious: the ticket has the holder's photo on it.

Alexandra and Pavel taking a selfie on a stone road, with palm trees and the towers of Angkor Wat behind them — Morning at Angkor Wat

The main temple here is Angkor Wat. There are a great many temples in Angkor, and this one is the chief of them.

Angkor Wat with its five towers beyond a wide sun-scorched open space — Angkor Wat, the main temple of Angkor

Angkor Wat is ringed by corridors, and steep steps lead to the top. The temple has several pools — there are even a couple at the very top.

A steep stone staircase leading to the entrance of the temple's upper tier — Up the steep steps

The faces of Bayon

Next came Bayon, a temple with huge stone faces everywhere. At the time we took them for faces of the Buddha, but they are most often thought to depict King Jayavarman VII, under whom the temple was built. There were so many Chinese tourists that you could hardly move.

Two stone towers with huge carved faces against trees and sky — The stone faces of Bayon

Nearby is Baphuon with its long corridors. It is also part of the Angkor Thom temple complex, and from its top you can see the surrounding area.

Alexandra standing in a narrow gap between the stone columns of a corridor — The corridors of Angkor Wat and Baphuon

Alexandra, seen from behind, walking down a long stone corridor with a vaulted ceiling toward a bright exit — The corridors of Angkor Wat and Baphuon

Nature reclaims its own

There are many small temples around, and by and large they are all alike. But in them you can see how the jungle is taking back its own: a tree seems to be devouring a temple gate, and roots spread across the old stones.

A tree trunk that has grown into a stone temple gate and shifted the blocks — A tree devouring a gate, and roots on the old stones

A huge tree with a hollow trunk, its roots spread across a brick wall — A tree devouring a gate, and roots on the old stones

A sunset in the clouds

On the evening of January 16 we went to Angkor again, to watch the sunset at the ruins of a temple on a hill. But it was cloudy, and we never did see a beautiful sunset.