Gold and white bursts of fireworks over a lake and the lights of the city at night, silhouettes of spectators below
USA 2017frame 01 of 9

Seattle and Forks: July 4 fireworks and the town from Twilight

In early July 2017 we arrived in Seattle. We spent the first evening at the home of an acquaintance of Pavel's: we ate excellent steaks and played Monopoly. Our hosts had to go to work in the morning, so we got up early and went to drive around the city.

Alexandra and Pavel in sunglasses look as if they are propping up the Space Needle with their hands against a blue sky
The Space Needle, July 2017

Of course, we saw the Space Needle, Seattle's famous tower, and visited the science museum while we were at it.

Independence Day

For July 4 we stayed in Seattle with an American we had met through Couchsurfing. He suggested going to the local market during the day and watching the holiday fireworks in the evening in a park on the lakeshore.

A cobblestone square in front of the market's red sign with a big clock, passersby walking toward the entrance
The market we were advised to visit on July 4

The market sold fresh fish, red currants, and purple apples. From there we went to the aquarium. It has a pool where you can touch the polyps and starfish with your hands, as long as you don't take them out of the water.

Alexandra smiles next to an aquarium tank with an octopus's tentacles pressed against the glass
The Seattle Aquarium, July 2017

The octopus seemed to be asleep.

Toward evening we drove to Gas Works Park on the lakeshore. A huge crowd had gathered: we spent a long time looking for a place to park and ended up leaving the car a half-hour walk from the park. The fireworks were worth it: they were set to music, and we had never seen anything like that before. They also sang the anthem there, very movingly, enough to give you goosebumps. On the way we walked past single-story houses, and in many yards people were barbecuing with friends and family: for Americans it is a day off. And on the way back, a raccoon ran across the road in front of us.

The Olympic Peninsula

Then we went to Olympic National Park and drove all the way around it. We swam in lakes, walked through a mossy forest that looked like a fairy tale about hobbits, and went on a three-day hike: 24 kilometers the first day, a day of rest at a lake, and the same 24 kilometers back. The lake turned out to be pretty, calm, and warm, but, to be honest, it was not worth that much effort.

Forks

In Forks we set off to see the Twilight locations. The first thing to catch our eye was Bella's truck. The house where she "lived" is an ordinary residential house: people live there who have gotten rather tired of the fans, and there are "Private Property" signs everywhere. A tour bus also takes people around the same places.

A white Twilight tour minibus with the characters' faces painted on the back drives along a narrow street among trees
The Twilight tour bus, Forks, July 2017

The Forks hospital has a parking space "for Dr. Cullen," and in the parking lot of the local school, according to the story, Edward saved Bella from a crash. At the police station where Bella's father worked, they have set up a whole Twilight corner by the entrance.

A display of mannequins in the film characters' clothes, a motorcycle, and an arch of white flowers against green fabricA glass display case with editions of Twilight in Chinese, Korean, Japanese, and other languages
The characters' clothes and books in different languages, Forks, July 2017

Forks also had something like a museum: the characters' clothes and books in different languages. There are fourteen Chinese editions alone, and among the books we even found one in Russian: New Moon.

Alexandra by a garden arch in front of a white two-story house with a Canadian flag above the porch
The "Cullen house," Forks, July 2017

In 2017 the "Cullen house" rented out rooms for 150 dollars a night. A Canadian flag hangs over the porch, since the house is run by Canadians, and an American one hangs on the other side. Also, without knowing it, we bought groceries at the store where Bella worked part-time after school. We only found out later, so we don't have a photo of the store.

Alexandra walks along a wide empty beach by the surf, with rocks in the ocean and a wooded headland in the distance
A beach near La Push, July 2017

From Forks we took a trip to an ocean beach near La Push; it also shows up in Twilight. We drove to Lake Crescent for the night, had breakfast on its shore in the morning, then saw Sol Duc Falls, and on Hurricane Ridge, glaciers, a sunset, and a marmot. We spent the night at a campground and returned to Seattle.

Seattle again

Our new host took us into the art museum for free on his membership, to the Infinity Mirrors exhibition by the Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama.

Alexandra sticks a colored dot onto a white sofa completely covered in multicolored dots
The Obliteration Room at the Yayoi Kusama exhibition, July 2017

In the Obliteration Room they hand out round stickers at the entrance, and you can stick them anywhere you like.

We did not drive to the museum: parking in downtown Seattle is a big problem. We rode something between a subway and a streetcar, and bought a ticket to the station we needed, which you choose right at the machine.

In the evening we bought groceries and treated the Americans to borscht. The borscht came out pretty good. We spent one more day in the city and then drove a little over 300 miles to Spokane.

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